flipHoneyed quinces (melimelon)
Honeyed quinces (melimelon)
Why this dish? An imperial court had to be able to offer sweets in all seasons, even outside harvest. Quinces preserved in honey, which kept for months, filled the stores of the Sacred Palace and ended the grand deipna where Theodora received guests. Honey, present everywhere on her table, was also the great preservative of antiquity.
Quince wedges slowly candied in honey until tender and translucent. A fragrant preserve, both sweet and delicately tart.
When winter comes and the orchards fall silent, it is in honey that we keep the summer. You choose beautiful hard fragrant quinces, peel them, lay them in honey, and let them candy over low heat until they become amber. They keep for whole moons in their jars. At the end of a feast, I had them brought to the guests — for an empress must know how to offer sweetness, even when the hour is harsh.
- •Quinces — several (fruit)
- •Honey — enough to cover (candying and preservation)
- •Sweet wine — a little (fragrant liquid)
- •Pepper or nard (optional) — a touch (refined spice)
Honeyed quinces (melimelon)
Quince wedges slowly candied in honey until tender and translucent. A fragrant preserve, both sweet and delicately tart.
Why this dish? An imperial court had to be able to offer sweets in all seasons, even outside harvest. Quinces preserved in honey, which kept for months, filled the stores of the Sacred Palace and ended the grand deipna where Theodora received guests. Honey, present everywhere on her table, was also the great preservative of antiquity.
When winter comes and the orchards fall silent, it is in honey that we keep the summer. You choose beautiful hard fragrant quinces, peel them, lay them in honey, and let them candy over low heat until they become amber. They keep for whole moons in their jars. At the end of a feast, I had them brought to the guests — for an empress must know how to offer sweetness, even when the hour is harsh.
Ingredients (period version)
- Quinces — several (fruit)
- Honey — enough to cover (candying and preservation)
- Sweet wine — a little (fragrant liquid)
- Pepper or nard (optional) — a touch (refined spice)
Ingredients
- Quinces — 3 (about 600 g) (fruit)
- Honey — about 300 g (candying and preservation)
- Medium-sweet white wine or water — 10 cl (fragrant liquid)
- Freshly ground pepper (optional) — 1 pinch (refined spice)
Method
- Peel quinces, remove cores, and cut into wedges.
- Place in a saucepan with honey and sweet wine; bring to a simmer.
- Cook over very low heat for 45 min to 1 h, stirring gently, until wedges are tender and amber.
- Add a hint of pepper at the end of cooking if desired for the period touch.
- Store quinces and syrup in a clean jar; keep cool. Serve at the end of a meal.
How it was made : The Ancients candied quinces in honey (melimelon, from which the word 'marmalade' derives) to preserve them for a long time; Apicius describes quinces kept in honey and defrutum. Honey, with its antiseptic power, was the great preservative before cane sugar.
The contemporary twist : A few amber wedges on a spoonful of fresh cheese: a Byzantine dessert that would put a bistro plate to shame.
Sources : Apicius, De re coquinaria · Anthimus, De observatione ciborum (6th c.)
Theodora · Charactorium
