Gretchnévaïa kacha (Buckwheat Kasha with Butter)
A nourishing porridge of toasted buckwheat groats, swollen in water then bound with melted butter. Comforting, earthy, it is the 'bread' of Russians: they say that 'kasha is our mother.'
A nourishing porridge of toasted buckwheat groats, swollen in water then bound with melted butter. Comforting, earthy, it is the 'bread' of Russians: they say that 'kasha is our mother.'
Let my marshals be served French sauces and Rhine wines; for Me, bring the kasha of my childhood. See: first you make the grain sing dry in the cast-iron pan until it smells of hazelnut, then you drown it in simmering water and let it swell covered, without touching it further. A knob of butter, a grain of salt — nothing else. God made me emperor of all the Russias, but before this moujik dish, I am but a man giving thanks.
- •Buckwheat groats (gretcha) — a good measure (base grain)
- •Spring water — double the grain (cooking liquid)
- •Churned butter — as desired (binding and richness)
- •Salt — a pinch (seasoning)
Gretchnévaïa kacha (Buckwheat Kasha with Butter)
A nourishing porridge of toasted buckwheat groats, swollen in water then bound with melted butter. Comforting, earthy, it is the 'bread' of Russians: they say that 'kasha is our mother.'
Why this dish? Despite the French splendor of his court, Alexander I had sober, almost ascetic personal tastes as he grew older in devotion. Buckwheat kasha — the humblest and most universal dish of Russia — embodies this imperial penchant for simplicity.
Let my marshals be served French sauces and Rhine wines; for Me, bring the kasha of my childhood. See: first you make the grain sing dry in the cast-iron pan until it smells of hazelnut, then you drown it in simmering water and let it swell covered, without touching it further. A knob of butter, a grain of salt — nothing else. God made me emperor of all the Russias, but before this moujik dish, I am but a man giving thanks.
Ingredients (period version)
- Buckwheat groats (gretcha) — a good measure (base grain)
- Spring water — double the grain (cooking liquid)
- Churned butter — as desired (binding and richness)
- Salt — a pinch (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Buckwheat kasha (whole toasted groats) — 200 g (base grain)
- Water — 400 ml (cooking liquid)
- Butter — 40 g (binding and richness)
- Salt — 1 tsp (seasoning)
Method
- Toast the buckwheat dry in a saucepan for 2-3 minutes until it smells nutty.
- Pour in boiling salted water (watch for splashes), bring to a simmer.
- Cover and cook over very low heat 15-18 minutes without stirring, until liquid is absorbed.
- Turn off heat, add butter, cover and let rest 10 minutes off heat.
- Fluff with a fork and serve piping hot.
How it was made : Traditionally, kasha was cooked in a large pan or iron pot slipped into the heart of the Russian oven (pétch), where gentle, enveloping heat made it swell slowly all morning. A Lenten dish on lean days (without butter), a festive dish on others.
The contemporary twist : Serve it 'imperial banquet style' in a small bowl, crowned with a soft-boiled egg and sautéed mushrooms, a nod to the court-peasantry marriage.
Sources : Elena Molokhovets, 'A Gift to Young Housewives' (1861, earlier tradition) · Darra Goldstein, 'Beyond the North Wind: Russia in Recipes and Lore' (2020)
Alexander I · Charactorium