flipLao, the Horsemen's Fermented Dairy
Lao, the Horsemen's Fermented Dairy
Why this dish? An Lushan was also of Turkic descent, son of nomadic peoples for whom fermented milk is the vital food of the steppe. On military campaign, at the head of his northern armies, this tangy lao that keeps and travels was the horseman's food, to drink or eat between stages.
A thickened, tangy dairy product, halfway between yogurt and fresh cheese, obtained by letting milk curdle slowly. A reserve food of steppe peoples, fresh, living, quickly made.
Do you think a horseman lives on banquets? On the trail, between Fanyang and the pass, it's this that kept me going. The milk, you let it turn in a pouch warmed by the horse's flank, and it thickens, it takes on that sour bite that wakes a tired man. My steppe fathers knew no other cheese. Eat it fresh, or let it dry until it becomes hard as a saddle stone — and you'll have enough to march across the whole Empire.
- •Ewe's or cow's milk — as much as you milk (base)
- •Leftover fermented milk from yesterday — a little (starter)
Lao, the Horsemen's Fermented Dairy
A thickened, tangy dairy product, halfway between yogurt and fresh cheese, obtained by letting milk curdle slowly. A reserve food of steppe peoples, fresh, living, quickly made.
Why this dish? An Lushan was also of Turkic descent, son of nomadic peoples for whom fermented milk is the vital food of the steppe. On military campaign, at the head of his northern armies, this tangy lao that keeps and travels was the horseman's food, to drink or eat between stages.
Do you think a horseman lives on banquets? On the trail, between Fanyang and the pass, it's this that kept me going. The milk, you let it turn in a pouch warmed by the horse's flank, and it thickens, it takes on that sour bite that wakes a tired man. My steppe fathers knew no other cheese. Eat it fresh, or let it dry until it becomes hard as a saddle stone — and you'll have enough to march across the whole Empire.
Ingredients (period version)
- Ewe's or cow's milk — as much as you milk (base)
- Leftover fermented milk from yesterday — a little (starter)
Ingredients
- Whole milk (ewe's or cow's) — 1 liter (base)
- Plain whole milk yogurt — 2 tbsp (starter)
Method
- Gently heat milk to 85°C while stirring, then let cool to about 45°C (finger-warm).
- Whisk yogurt into a little warm milk, then stir into the rest.
- Pour into a pot, cover, and keep warm (turned-off oven with light on, or wrapped in thick cloth) for 6-8 hours without moving.
- When the milk has set and is distinctly tangy, refrigerate to stop fermentation.
- Enjoy as is, by spoon or drinkable; for the "campaign" version, drain in cheesecloth to thicken.
How it was made : Fermented dairy products (called lao 酪) were associated with northern and steppe peoples, and their consumption spread in northern China under the influence of Turkic-nomadic cultures. Easy to preserve, they were perfect for military life and travel.
The contemporary twist : Drain it into a "steppe labneh", roll into small balls and coat with toasted cumin: An Lushan's nomadic snack reimagined as an appetizer.
An Lushan · Charactorium
