Holodets, Meat in Aspic
A meat broth so rich in collagen that it sets into a trembling jelly as it cools, trapping shreds of meat and garlic, sliced cold and perked up with a dab of horseradish.
A meat broth so rich in collagen that it sets into a trembling jelly as it cools, trapping shreds of meat and garlic, sliced cold and perked up with a dab of horseradish.
Here is a dish for entertaining, prepared the day before because it needs a full night in the cold to set. I cook it for hours, over the gentlest heat, until the broth coats the spoon; we say at home that if it doesn't tremble properly under the knife, you've lacked patience. Rub a little garlic on it at the last moment, and serve it well chilled with sharp horseradish—that's how you honor your guests on feast days.
- •Pig's trotter and shank or beef shank — enough to gel (collagen, natural set)
- •Lean meat — a good piece (shredded flesh)
- •Onion, bay leaf, peppercorns — to taste (broth aromatics)
- •Garlic — a few cloves (final flavor)
- •Horseradish — to serve (pungent condiment)
Holodets, Meat in Aspic
A meat broth so rich in collagen that it sets into a trembling jelly as it cools, trapping shreds of meat and garlic, sliced cold and perked up with a dab of horseradish.
Why this dish? Holodets, meat in aspic, is among the typical objects anchoring the character: it was an indispensable festive zakuska on bourgeois Moscow tables, prepared for receptions and special occasions.
Here is a dish for entertaining, prepared the day before because it needs a full night in the cold to set. I cook it for hours, over the gentlest heat, until the broth coats the spoon; we say at home that if it doesn't tremble properly under the knife, you've lacked patience. Rub a little garlic on it at the last moment, and serve it well chilled with sharp horseradish—that's how you honor your guests on feast days.
Ingredients (period version)
- Pig's trotter and shank or beef shank — enough to gel (collagen, natural set)
- Lean meat — a good piece (shredded flesh)
- Onion, bay leaf, peppercorns — to taste (broth aromatics)
- Garlic — a few cloves (final flavor)
- Horseradish — to serve (pungent condiment)
Ingredients
- Pork shank with bone — 1 kg (collagen, natural set)
- Pig's or calf's foot — 1 (natural gelatin)
- Lean beef — 400 g (shredded flesh)
- Onion — 1 (aromatic)
- Carrot — 1 (aromatic and color)
- Bay leaf and peppercorns — 2 leaves, 6 grains (broth flavor)
- Garlic — 3 cloves (final flavor)
- Grated horseradish — to serve (pungent condiment)
Method
- Put the meats and bone in a large pot, cover with cold water, bring to a simmer and skim thoroughly.
- Add onion, carrot, bay leaf and peppercorns, then cook over the lowest heat for 5 to 6 hours without boiling.
- Remove the meats, shred them and distribute into terrine molds; add the crushed garlic.
- Strain the broth, season with salt, pour over the meat and let set overnight in the cold.
- Unmold or slice in the terrine, serve well chilled with horseradish.
How it was made : Before refrigeration, people took advantage of the Russian cold: they set the holodets terrines in the cellar or between the double windows, where natural frost made them set. The jelly came solely from the collagen of feet and bones boiled for a long time—no added gelatin. It was also a way to use the whole animal and preserve the meat for a few days.
The contemporary twist : Pour the holodets into small individual molds with a slice of carrot and a sprig of dill suspended in the jelly, for a stained-glass effect on the plate.
Antonina Miliukova · Charactorium
