flipHandkäse mit Musik
Handkäse mit Musik
Why this dish? A typical snack in Frankfurt cider taverns, "hand cheese with music" was nibbled at the counter with a glass of Apfelwein. In Schopenhauer's adopted city, it was the hearty popular snack every regular at the table knew.
A small, yellow, translucent curd cheese marinated in a vinaigrette of onions, cumin, and vinegar—the "music" being the well-known effect of onions on digestion! Tangy, pungent, no cooking.
The name will make you smile, and the philosopher, who despises false modesty, smiles with you: the "music" of this cheese is the onion singing in the belly, and no one ever died of it. It is served at the tavern counter, bathed in vinegar and cumin, with a hunk of rye bread and a glass of cider. Let it marinate a full hour, so the onion penetrates the curd: haste spoils this dish as it spoils judgment. It is a small thing, I grant you—but the small, well-tasted, is worth more than the great feasts of pride.
- •Handkäse (sour curd cheese, shaped by hand) — a few small cheeses (base)
- •Onions — as needed, sliced (the 'music')
- •Vinegar, oil — to taste (marinade)
- •Caraway seeds (cumin) — a pinch (signature spice)
- •Rye bread — separate (accompaniment)
Handkäse mit Musik
A small, yellow, translucent curd cheese marinated in a vinaigrette of onions, cumin, and vinegar—the "music" being the well-known effect of onions on digestion! Tangy, pungent, no cooking.
Why this dish? A typical snack in Frankfurt cider taverns, "hand cheese with music" was nibbled at the counter with a glass of Apfelwein. In Schopenhauer's adopted city, it was the hearty popular snack every regular at the table knew.
The name will make you smile, and the philosopher, who despises false modesty, smiles with you: the "music" of this cheese is the onion singing in the belly, and no one ever died of it. It is served at the tavern counter, bathed in vinegar and cumin, with a hunk of rye bread and a glass of cider. Let it marinate a full hour, so the onion penetrates the curd: haste spoils this dish as it spoils judgment. It is a small thing, I grant you—but the small, well-tasted, is worth more than the great feasts of pride.
Ingredients (period version)
- Handkäse (sour curd cheese, shaped by hand) — a few small cheeses (base)
- Onions — as needed, sliced (the 'music')
- Vinegar, oil — to taste (marinade)
- Caraway seeds (cumin) — a pinch (signature spice)
- Rye bread — separate (accompaniment)
Ingredients
- Handkäse (or substitute Harzer Käse / low-fat sour cheese) — 4 small cheeses (cheese)
- Onions — 2, finely sliced (aromatic marinade)
- Wine vinegar — 4 tbsp (acidity)
- Neutral oil — 2 tbsp (binder)
- Caraway seeds — 1 tsp (traditional flavor)
- Salt, pepper — to taste (seasoning)
- Rye bread and butter — for serving (accompaniment)
Method
- Mix the sliced onions, vinegar, oil, caraway, salt, and pepper.
- Place the cheeses in a shallow dish and completely coat them with the onion marinade.
- Cover and marinate 1 to 2 hours in the refrigerator, turning the cheeses halfway.
- Serve at room temperature with buttered rye bread and a glass of cider.
- The longer the cheese marinates, the more tender and pungent it becomes.
How it was made : Handkäse, a low-fat curd cheese pressed by hand, was a poor man's cheese, high in protein and low in fat. In 19th-century Frankfurt cider taverns, it was served marinated with onions and caraway as a cheap accompaniment to Apfelwein—caraway was said to aid digestion.
The contemporary twist : Present on a wooden board with translucent onion rings on top, a sprinkle of caraway, and a slice of rye bread: a rustic little platter perfect for a story-worthy tasting.
Sources : Tradition of Frankfurt Apfelweinwirtschaften · Low-fat curd cheeses of central Germany
Arthur Schopenhauer · Charactorium
