White tafāyā of lamb with almonds and coriander
A "white" lamb stew (without saffron) thickened with ground almonds, perfumed with abundant fresh coriander, ginger, and cinnamon. Tender, fragrant, elegant.
A "white" lamb stew (without saffron) thickened with ground almonds, perfumed with abundant fresh coriander, ginger, and cinnamon. Tender, fragrant, elegant.
When I received men of law or medicine, I would have tafāyā prepared, for it honors the guest without overburdening him. One chooses the tenderest cuts of lamb, melts them in oil with plenty of green coriander, ginger, and a hint of cinnamon, then thickens with ground almonds until the sauce becomes pale and velvety. Taste it as one tastes an argument: without excess of spice, where each flavor keeps its proper place. This, I believe, is a cuisine in accordance with reason.
- •Lamb (tender cuts) — a fine piece (noble meat)
- •Fresh coriander — abundant (dominant aroma)
- •Blanched almonds — a good handful (sauce thickener)
- •Ginger — a little (warm spice)
- •Cinnamon — a hint (sweet spice)
- •Olive oil — generous (fat)
- •Onion — one (base)
- •Murrī or salt — to taste (seasoning)
White tafāyā of lamb with almonds and coriander
A "white" lamb stew (without saffron) thickened with ground almonds, perfumed with abundant fresh coriander, ginger, and cinnamon. Tender, fragrant, elegant.
Why this dish? Tafāyā, a refined coriander-lamb stew, was a reception dish in good Andalusian households. Averroes, physician to the Almohad caliph and judge of Córdoba and Seville, received learned men at his table: this noble, sweet and fragrant dish suited such guests.
When I received men of law or medicine, I would have tafāyā prepared, for it honors the guest without overburdening him. One chooses the tenderest cuts of lamb, melts them in oil with plenty of green coriander, ginger, and a hint of cinnamon, then thickens with ground almonds until the sauce becomes pale and velvety. Taste it as one tastes an argument: without excess of spice, where each flavor keeps its proper place. This, I believe, is a cuisine in accordance with reason.
Ingredients (period version)
- Lamb (tender cuts) — a fine piece (noble meat)
- Fresh coriander — abundant (dominant aroma)
- Blanched almonds — a good handful (sauce thickener)
- Ginger — a little (warm spice)
- Cinnamon — a hint (sweet spice)
- Olive oil — generous (fat)
- Onion — one (base)
- Murrī or salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Lamb shank or neck — 700 g (noble meat)
- Fresh coriander — 2 large bunches (dominant aroma)
- Almond powder (or ground almonds) — 80 g (sauce thickener)
- Ground ginger — 1 tsp (warm spice)
- Cinnamon — 1/2 tsp (sweet spice)
- Olive oil — 4 tbsp (fat)
- Onion — 1, sliced (base)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
- Water — 600 ml (cooking liquid)
Method
- Sear the lamb in oil with the onion, without letting it brown too much ("white" stew).
- Add ginger, cinnamon, salt, half the chopped coriander, then add water.
- Cover and simmer for 1 h 30 until the meat is tender.
- Mix the almond powder with a ladleful of broth and stir it into the stew to thicken.
- Let it thicken for 10 minutes over low heat, then add the remaining fresh coriander at the end.
- Adjust salt and serve with bread for dipping.
How it was made : "White" tafāyā (with fresh coriander) and "green" versions feature prominently in Andalusian recipe collections. The almond-thickened sauce, a signature of Al-Andalus cuisine, provides creaminess without using cream. Saffron was avoided to preserve the dish's elegant paleness.
The contemporary twist : Top with a few crushed toasted almonds and coriander petals, serve in a shallow bowl with a drizzle of green olive oil.
Sources : Ibn Razīn al-Tujībī, Fuḍālat al-khiwān fī ṭayyibāt al-ṭaʿām wa al-alwān (13th c.) · Kitāb al-ṭabīkh fī al-Maghrib wa al-Andalus (anonymous Almohad)
Averroes · Charactorium