flipDried Fish and Lentils of the Traveler
Dried Fish and Lentils of the Traveler
Why this dish? Tradition links Clement to long journeys and exile in Tauric Chersonese (Crimea), on the Black Sea. Dried fish and lentils, provisions that keep and travel well, were the food of travelers and exiles of the Empire, easy to carry by sea.
Lentils simmered with pieces of rehydrated dried fish, perfumed with cumin and coriander. A dense, nourishing dish that sustains the body on roads and ships.
The journey is long, my friend, and the Black Sea is harsh for one who comes from Rome. I carry with me this fish that has been dried in the sun and salt, for it keeps when fresh goes bad. Soak your lentils overnight, set them over a low fire with the shredded fish, a little cumin and coriander as they like here. It is the meal of the road: modest, but it restores strength to one who has been driven far from his kin.
- •Dried salted fish — one portion per guest (preserved protein)
- •Lentils — two handfuls (base legume)
- •Cumin and coriander — to flavor (spices)
- •Onion and garlic — to taste (aromatics)
- •Olive oil and vinegar — a drizzle (seasoning)
Dried Fish and Lentils of the Traveler
Lentils simmered with pieces of rehydrated dried fish, perfumed with cumin and coriander. A dense, nourishing dish that sustains the body on roads and ships.
Why this dish? Tradition links Clement to long journeys and exile in Tauric Chersonese (Crimea), on the Black Sea. Dried fish and lentils, provisions that keep and travel well, were the food of travelers and exiles of the Empire, easy to carry by sea.
The journey is long, my friend, and the Black Sea is harsh for one who comes from Rome. I carry with me this fish that has been dried in the sun and salt, for it keeps when fresh goes bad. Soak your lentils overnight, set them over a low fire with the shredded fish, a little cumin and coriander as they like here. It is the meal of the road: modest, but it restores strength to one who has been driven far from his kin.
Ingredients (period version)
- Dried salted fish — one portion per guest (preserved protein)
- Lentils — two handfuls (base legume)
- Cumin and coriander — to flavor (spices)
- Onion and garlic — to taste (aromatics)
- Olive oil and vinegar — a drizzle (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Dried salted cod (or stockfish) — 200 g (preserved protein)
- Green lentils — 250 g (base legume)
- Ground cumin — 1 tsp (spice)
- Ground coriander seeds — 1 tsp (spice)
- Onion — 1 (aromatic)
- Garlic — 2 cloves (aromatic)
- Olive oil — 3 tbsp (fat)
- Wine vinegar — 1 tbsp (acidity)
- Bay leaf — 1 (aromatic)
Method
- Desalt the dried cod for 24 hours in cold water, changing the water several times, then flake it.
- Sauté the onion and garlic in olive oil with cumin and coriander.
- Add the rinsed lentils, bay leaf, and water; cook for 25–30 minutes until tender.
- Stir in the flaked fish at the end of cooking and simmer for 10 minutes.
- Off the heat, season with a dash of vinegar and a drizzle of oil, then adjust the seasoning.
How it was made : Salted and dried fish (salsamentum) was a major trade item in the Empire: it traveled in amphorae and fed sailors, soldiers, and travelers. Paired with lentils, a cheap and easily stored legume, it made a complete and transportable meal, ideal for long sea voyages from the Mediterranean to the Black Sea.
The contemporary twist : Serve the warm lentils as a salad with the flaked fish, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and some fresh herbs — a 'traveler's brandade' reimagined as a bistro plate.
Sources : Apicius, De Re Coquinaria · Pliny the Elder, Natural History, Book IX
Clement of Rome · Charactorium
