Patina of fish with garum and defrutum — the mensa prima of the banquet
A melting fish custard baked in a terrine, bound with eggs, perfumed with wine and garum, balanced by honey and defrutum: the pinnacle of sweet-sour-salty refined Roman cuisine.
A melting fish custard baked in a terrine, bound with eggs, perfumed with wine and garum, balanced by honey and defrutum: the pinnacle of sweet-sour-salty refined Roman cuisine.
At Baiae, on my terrace overlooking the bay, the fish arrives still wriggling from the fishponds — one must do it honor. You crumble the cooked flesh, bind it with beaten eggs, moisten with wine and a dash of garum, sweeten with honey and defrutum, then let it all cook gently until it sets like a firm cream. Cicero may drag me through his court and call me every name; my guests, however, will forget neither my verses nor my table. Serve it warm, and let the cups be filled.
- •Sea fish (sea bass, sea bream) — a fine piece (base)
- •Eggs — a few (binder)
- •Garum — a dash (umami seasoning)
- •White wine — a ladleful (flavor)
- •Defrutum (reduced grape must) — a drizzle (sweetness)
- •Honey — a spoonful (sweetness)
- •Pepper, lovage, oregano — to taste (aromatics)
- •Olive oil — for the dish (cooking)
Patina of fish with garum and defrutum — the mensa prima of the banquet
A melting fish custard baked in a terrine, bound with eggs, perfumed with wine and garum, balanced by honey and defrutum: the pinnacle of sweet-sour-salty refined Roman cuisine.
Why this dish? In Clodia's gardens on the Tiber and at her villa in Baiae on the Bay of Naples, fresh fish abounded. This patina, a fish custard bound with eggs and seasoned with garum, was exactly the kind of dish a prominent hostess would serve at banquets where the art of pleasing was cultivated.
At Baiae, on my terrace overlooking the bay, the fish arrives still wriggling from the fishponds — one must do it honor. You crumble the cooked flesh, bind it with beaten eggs, moisten with wine and a dash of garum, sweeten with honey and defrutum, then let it all cook gently until it sets like a firm cream. Cicero may drag me through his court and call me every name; my guests, however, will forget neither my verses nor my table. Serve it warm, and let the cups be filled.
Ingredients (period version)
- Sea fish (sea bass, sea bream) — a fine piece (base)
- Eggs — a few (binder)
- Garum — a dash (umami seasoning)
- White wine — a ladleful (flavor)
- Defrutum (reduced grape must) — a drizzle (sweetness)
- Honey — a spoonful (sweetness)
- Pepper, lovage, oregano — to taste (aromatics)
- Olive oil — for the dish (cooking)
Ingredients
- Sea bream or sea bass fillets — 500 g (base)
- Eggs — 4 (binder)
- Fish sauce (nuoc-mam or colatura di alici, garum substitute) — 2 tbsp (umami seasoning)
- Dry white wine — 100 ml (flavor)
- Reduced grape must (or grape juice reduced by half) — 2 tbsp (sweetness)
- Honey — 1 tbsp (sweetness)
- Pepper, dried oregano, lovage (or celery) — 1 pinch each (aromatics)
- Olive oil — 2 tbsp (cooking)
Method
- Poach the fish fillets for a few minutes in simmering water, then flake them, removing bones and skin.
- Beat the eggs with the white wine, fish sauce, reduced must, honey, and aromatics.
- Mix the flaked fish into the egg mixture.
- Grease an oven dish with oil and pour in the mixture.
- Cook in a bain-marie at medium heat (160°C) for about 30 minutes, until the custard is set but still slightly jiggly.
- Let cool slightly, grind some pepper on top, and serve with a spoon.
How it was made : Patinae are savory custards very common in Apicius. Garum, made by fermenting small fish in salt for months, provided saltiness and umami; defrutum and honey created the sweet-sour balance the Romans cherished. They were baked in low ovens or under ashes, in earthenware molds.
The contemporary twist : Bake in individual ramekins and unmold, like a 'sea flan,' with a dash of colatura di alici (the direct heir of garum, still produced in Cetara).
Sources : Apicius, De re coquinaria, book IV (Patinae)
Clodia Metella · Charactorium