Arequipa Shrimp Chupe
A thick, spicy soup-stew where river shrimp, Andean potatoes and corn simmer in a broth perfumed with ají and huacatay herb, bound with milk and fresh cheese. Ardent, generous, it is the king of Arequipa's festive dishes.
A thick, spicy soup-stew where river shrimp, Andean potatoes and corn simmer in a broth perfumed with ají and huacatay herb, bound with milk and fresh cheese. Ardent, generous, it is the king of Arequipa's festive dishes.
At my uncle Pío's house in Arequipa, no one was received without serving chupe. Imagine a great pot where river crayfish, local potatoes and corn swam, all spiced with that ají that seizes the mouth and bound with milk and fresh cheese. We sat down in numbers, drew from the same dish, and this noisy abundance was a great change from my meager Paris suppers. There, at least, the table spoke of sharing—though I never forgot the poor outside who tasted none of it.
- •River shrimp or crayfish — a good handful per guest (heart of the dish)
- •Andean potatoes — several (starch)
- •Corn on the cob — a few chunks (starch)
- •Ají (Peruvian chili) — to desired heat (spicy signature)
- •Milk — a bowl (mild binder)
- •Fresh cheese — a piece (creaminess)
- •Huacatay (Andean herb) — a few leaves (flavor)
Arequipa Shrimp Chupe
A thick, spicy soup-stew where river shrimp, Andean potatoes and corn simmer in a broth perfumed with ají and huacatay herb, bound with milk and fresh cheese. Ardent, generous, it is the king of Arequipa's festive dishes.
Why this dish? In Arequipa, Flora stayed with the wealthy family of her uncle Pío Tristán, where meals were lavish. Chupe—the region's great soup-stew—crowned festive Arequipeñan tables: a single, generous, shared dish, the opposite of her Parisian frugality.
At my uncle Pío's house in Arequipa, no one was received without serving chupe. Imagine a great pot where river crayfish, local potatoes and corn swam, all spiced with that ají that seizes the mouth and bound with milk and fresh cheese. We sat down in numbers, drew from the same dish, and this noisy abundance was a great change from my meager Paris suppers. There, at least, the table spoke of sharing—though I never forgot the poor outside who tasted none of it.
Ingredients (period version)
- River shrimp or crayfish — a good handful per guest (heart of the dish)
- Andean potatoes — several (starch)
- Corn on the cob — a few chunks (starch)
- Ají (Peruvian chili) — to desired heat (spicy signature)
- Milk — a bowl (mild binder)
- Fresh cheese — a piece (creaminess)
- Huacatay (Andean herb) — a few leaves (flavor)
Ingredients
- Raw shrimp (or crayfish) — 400 g (heart of the dish)
- Firm-fleshed potatoes — 500 g (starch)
- Corn on the cob — 2, cut into chunks (starch)
- Ají amarillo paste (or mild chili + pinch of hot chili) — 1 to 2 tbsp (spicy signature)
- Whole milk — 25 cl (mild binder)
- Fresh cheese (like mild feta or fresh cheese) — 100 g (creaminess)
- Onion, garlic, tomato — 1 onion, 2 cloves, 1 tomato (aromatic base)
- Huacatay (or mint + cilantro if unavailable) — a few leaves (flavor)
Method
- Sauté chopped onion and garlic, add crushed tomato and ají paste; cook for a few minutes.
- Add about 1.2 liters of water, add potatoes and corn chunks; cook for 15-20 minutes.
- Add peeled shrimp and huacatay herb; cook for only 3-4 minutes.
- Off the heat, pour in milk and crumble fresh cheese; stir gently without boiling to avoid curdling.
- Adjust salt and serve hot in large bowls, each guest helping themselves to shrimp, potato and corn.
How it was made : Arequipeñan chupe is an emblematic Creole dish of southern Peru: a soup-stew bound with milk and cheese, spiced with ají and huacatay herb, featuring river shrimp, potatoes and corn—all Andean products. It was served on grand occasions as a single, communal dish.
The contemporary twist : Plated in a shallow bowl, one shrimp placed prominently and a drizzle of huacatay oil, the rustic chupe takes on the airs of a gastronomic Andean bisque.
Sources : Flora Tristan, Pérégrinations d'une paria (1838)
Flora Tristan · Charactorium
