Thick fish slices marinated in lime and cilantro, gently simmered in a broth of coconut milk, tomato, bell pepper, and red palm oil. Served bright orange, with white rice and *farofa*.

Why this dish? King dish of large Bahian gatherings and family reunions, *moqueca* embodies the coastal and warm Bahia that Gil carried everywhere, even in his London exile where he dreamed of the flavors of home.

A *moqueca* is *festa*, you know? When the house fills up, we take out the *panela de barro*, that old blackened clay pot that holds the memory of all meals. We lay the fish, the coconut, the *dendê*, and let it simmer without ever rushing — Bahian cuisine doesn't hurry, it sways like a slow samba. In London, in exile, it was this orange color and this coconut scent that brought me home, stronger than any song.

How it was made : *Moqueca* descends from indigenous techniques of wrapping and steaming fish; the Bahian version (*moqueca de dendê*) adds the African contribution — palm oil and coconut milk — which distinguishes it from the lighter *moqueca capixaba* of Espírito Santo. It was cooked in a *panela de barro*, a typical clay pot.

The contemporary twist : A version with grilled tofu and hearts of palm for vegetarian guests, faithful to Gil's dietary turn.

Gilberto Gil · Charactorium