flipÄrtsoppa (Swedish Yellow Pea Soup)
Ärtsoppa (Swedish Yellow Pea Soup)
Why this dish? In her frugal Swedish exile, Meitner adapted to a plainer cuisine. Ärtsoppa, the thick yellow pea soup traditionally served on Thursdays, is the archetype of the nourishing, economical, and keeping Scandinavian dish — the one that sustains a researcher who 'devoted little time to meals.' Its robustness also made it the dish for long winter journeys.
A thick, golden soup of yellow peas simmered with a piece of pork, perfumed with marjoram and thyme. Nourishing, cheap, it reheats without weakening and travels easily.
I was served this pea soup on Thursdays, faithfully, as Swedish custom dictates — an unpretentious dish, but one that sticks to the body in Stockholm's cold. I confess: during my research, I often neglected to eat, and such a soup had the advantage of keeping, reheating, and nourishing me without demanding my attention. Yellow peas, a bit of bacon, marjoram: nothing more, and that is quite enough. The North taught me this frugality.
- •Dried yellow peas — the base (nourishing legume)
- •Piece of salted pork or bacon — 1 (base and fat)
- •Onion — 1 (aromatic)
- •Marjoram, thyme — a pinch (flavor)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ärtsoppa (Swedish Yellow Pea Soup)
A thick, golden soup of yellow peas simmered with a piece of pork, perfumed with marjoram and thyme. Nourishing, cheap, it reheats without weakening and travels easily.
Why this dish? In her frugal Swedish exile, Meitner adapted to a plainer cuisine. Ärtsoppa, the thick yellow pea soup traditionally served on Thursdays, is the archetype of the nourishing, economical, and keeping Scandinavian dish — the one that sustains a researcher who 'devoted little time to meals.' Its robustness also made it the dish for long winter journeys.
I was served this pea soup on Thursdays, faithfully, as Swedish custom dictates — an unpretentious dish, but one that sticks to the body in Stockholm's cold. I confess: during my research, I often neglected to eat, and such a soup had the advantage of keeping, reheating, and nourishing me without demanding my attention. Yellow peas, a bit of bacon, marjoram: nothing more, and that is quite enough. The North taught me this frugality.
Ingredients (period version)
- Dried yellow peas — the base (nourishing legume)
- Piece of salted pork or bacon — 1 (base and fat)
- Onion — 1 (aromatic)
- Marjoram, thyme — a pinch (flavor)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Dried yellow split peas — 400 g (soaked overnight) (soup base)
- Pork shoulder or half-salt belly — 300 g (savory base)
- Onion studded with cloves — 1 (aromatic)
- Dried marjoram + thyme — 1 tsp total (flavor)
- Hot mustard (for serving) — at the table (traditional accompaniment)
- Salt and pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Soak the yellow peas overnight, then drain. Remove any skins that float to the surface if you want a finer soup.
- Put the peas, pork, clove-studded onion, and herbs in a large pot, cover with water, bring to a simmer and skim.
- Simmer for 1 h 30 to 2 h until the peas break down into a thick soup.
- Remove the pork, cut it into pieces, and return to the soup. Season with salt and pepper, adjust marjoram.
- Serve very hot with hot mustard on the side, Swedish style.
How it was made : Thursday ärtsoppa is a centuries-old Swedish tradition, sometimes traced back to pre-Reformation Catholic fast eves: one filled up the night before Friday's privations. Followed by pancakes (pannkakor), it formed the popular Thursday evening meal, from barracks to family kitchens. Its simplicity and long keeping made it a dish for all harsh seasons.
The contemporary twist : Finish the meal with thin pancakes and lingonberry jam, as the Swedish Thursday ritual demands: soup then pannkakor, the order is sacred.
Sources : Magnus Nilsson, The Nordic Cookbook, Phaidon · Tradition of Thursday ärtsoppa (Swedish folk cuisine)
Lise Meitner · Charactorium
