flipBarley Pottage with Leeks and Herbs
Barley Pottage with Leeks and Herbs
Why this dish? Son of a Stratford glover, raised in a middle-class home, Shakespeare grew up with a pottage spoon: this thick broth of barley and herbs simmered in stock was the staple of the daily English meal, from the laborious morning to the modest supper, in Stratford as in the London boarding houses.
A comforting broth where pearl barley thickens a chicken stock flavored with leeks, onion, and a bundle of garden herbs. Nourishing, mild, and green, it is the foundation dish of the English household.
Come, draw near, and be not proud before so humble a bowl: it is of this broth that England feeds, from the ploughman to the hungry player after three acts. My mother would thicken it with pearl barley until the spoon stood upright, and green it with a handful of parsley, sage, and hyssop plucked from the wall-side. Blow upon it, for it comes scalding from the pot, and know that a belly thus lined is better than a full purse to face the London rain.
- •Hulled barley — two handfuls (grain that binds and thickens)
- •Leeks — a few (base vegetable)
- •Onion — one (aromatic)
- •Chicken or beef broth — a large pot (cooking liquid)
- •Garden herbs (parsley, thyme, sage, hyssop) — a bundle (green fragrance)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
- •Butter — a knob (richness)
Barley Pottage with Leeks and Herbs
A comforting broth where pearl barley thickens a chicken stock flavored with leeks, onion, and a bundle of garden herbs. Nourishing, mild, and green, it is the foundation dish of the English household.
Why this dish? Son of a Stratford glover, raised in a middle-class home, Shakespeare grew up with a pottage spoon: this thick broth of barley and herbs simmered in stock was the staple of the daily English meal, from the laborious morning to the modest supper, in Stratford as in the London boarding houses.
Come, draw near, and be not proud before so humble a bowl: it is of this broth that England feeds, from the ploughman to the hungry player after three acts. My mother would thicken it with pearl barley until the spoon stood upright, and green it with a handful of parsley, sage, and hyssop plucked from the wall-side. Blow upon it, for it comes scalding from the pot, and know that a belly thus lined is better than a full purse to face the London rain.
Ingredients (period version)
- Hulled barley — two handfuls (grain that binds and thickens)
- Leeks — a few (base vegetable)
- Onion — one (aromatic)
- Chicken or beef broth — a large pot (cooking liquid)
- Garden herbs (parsley, thyme, sage, hyssop) — a bundle (green fragrance)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
- Butter — a knob (richness)
Ingredients
- Pearl barley — 150 g (grain that binds and thickens)
- Leeks — 2 medium (base vegetable)
- Onion — 1 (aromatic)
- Chicken broth — 1.2 L (cooking liquid)
- Parsley, thyme, sage, hyssop (or savory if unavailable) — 1 small bundle (green fragrance)
- Butter — 30 g (richness)
- Salt and pepper — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Rinse the pearl barley in cold water.
- Finely slice the leeks and onion, sweat them in the butter without browning.
- Add the barley, broth, and thyme, bring to a simmer.
- Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, until the barley is tender and the broth thick.
- At the end of cooking, stir in the chopped parsley and sage, adjust salt, and serve very hot.
How it was made : The pottage cooked for hours in a cauldron hung over the hearth, never truly emptied: each day herbs, grains (barley, oats), and leftovers were added. The humbler the household, the more grain replaced meat.
The contemporary twist : A grating of aged cheddar melted on top and a few croutons of stale bread to recall the 'manchet' dipped in the bowl.
Sources : Thomas Dawson, The Good Huswifes Jewell (1585-1596) · C. Anne Wilson, Food and Drink in Britain (1973)
William Shakespeare · Charactorium
