Shorba-ye gosht (Lamb Soup with Chickpeas and Herbs)
A rich lamb broth long-simmered with chickpeas, scented with cumin and coriander, enriched with turnips, and finished with a drizzle of fresh herbs. Thick and comforting, it is the soup of the Afghan winter.
A rich lamb broth long-simmered with chickpeas, scented with cumin and coriander, enriched with turnips, and finished with a drizzle of fresh herbs. Thick and comforting, it is the soup of the Afghan winter.
The winter in Kabul is harsh, make no mistake — I knew Ferghana, but Kabul in a north wind yields nothing to it. When snow blocks the passes and you can neither advance nor retreat, a pot of shorba on the fire is your best ally. Lamb with the bone, for that is where the strength of the broth lives, chickpeas soaked since the night before, cumin, turnips from the garden. You dip nan in it and eat in silence, for the cold commands respect.
- •Lamb neck or shank — a good piece with bone (meat and base)
- •Dried chickpeas — a handful, soaked overnight (legume)
- •Turnips — two or three (root vegetable)
- •Onion — one large (aromatic base)
- •Cumin seeds — a good pinch (spice)
- •Coriander seeds — a pinch (spice)
- •Salt — to taste (seasoning)
- •Fresh coriander — a handful (finish)
Shorba-ye gosht (Lamb Soup with Chickpeas and Herbs)
A rich lamb broth long-simmered with chickpeas, scented with cumin and coriander, enriched with turnips, and finished with a drizzle of fresh herbs. Thick and comforting, it is the soup of the Afghan winter.
Why this dish? Shorba was the daily meal of soldiers and princes in Central Asia. During the harsh winters of Kabul, where Babur resided from 1504 to 1526, this thick lamb and chickpea broth warmed the household. The Baburnama mentions the rigors of the Kabul climate and the importance of eating hot and nourishing food.
The winter in Kabul is harsh, make no mistake — I knew Ferghana, but Kabul in a north wind yields nothing to it. When snow blocks the passes and you can neither advance nor retreat, a pot of shorba on the fire is your best ally. Lamb with the bone, for that is where the strength of the broth lives, chickpeas soaked since the night before, cumin, turnips from the garden. You dip nan in it and eat in silence, for the cold commands respect.
Ingredients (period version)
- Lamb neck or shank — a good piece with bone (meat and base)
- Dried chickpeas — a handful, soaked overnight (legume)
- Turnips — two or three (root vegetable)
- Onion — one large (aromatic base)
- Cumin seeds — a good pinch (spice)
- Coriander seeds — a pinch (spice)
- Salt — to taste (seasoning)
- Fresh coriander — a handful (finish)
Ingredients
- Lamb neck or shank — 500 g (meat and broth)
- Canned chickpeas (drained) — 250 g (legume)
- Turnips — 2 medium, diced (vegetable)
- Onion — 1 large, sliced (aromatic base)
- Cumin seeds — 1 tsp (spice)
- Coriander seeds — 1 tsp (spice)
- Ground turmeric — ½ tsp (color and aroma)
- Vegetable oil or ghee — 2 tbsp (cooking)
- Water — 1.5 liters (broth)
- Salt and pepper — to taste (seasoning)
- Fresh coriander — 1 bunch (finish)
Method
- Heat ghee in a large pot. Sear lamb pieces on all sides.
- Add sliced onion and sauté until colored.
- Add cumin, coriander seeds, and turmeric. Toast for 1 minute, stirring.
- Pour in water, bring to a boil, skim thoroughly.
- Reduce heat, cover, and simmer 45 minutes.
- Add diced turnips and chickpeas. Continue cooking 30 minutes until meat falls off the bone.
- Remove meat, shred coarsely, return to soup.
- Adjust seasoning, serve in deep bowls with chopped fresh coriander and nan for dipping.
How it was made : Shorba is one of the oldest dishes of Central Asia, attested in medieval Persian and Turkish sources. Only dried chickpeas soaked the night before were used (canned did not exist). Turmeric was imported from India via trade routes through Kabul, making it common in the cuisine of this crossroads city.
The contemporary twist : Serve with a squeeze of lemon and a few raw turnip shavings on top for a textural contrast.
Sources : Perry, Charles, Medieval Arab Cookery, Prospect Books, 2001 · Baburnama, trans. A.S. Beveridge — descriptions of climate and daily life in Kabul
Babur · Charactorium
