Grilled fish with herbs, the opson of dinner
A whole Mediterranean fish grilled, rubbed with olive oil, perfumed with coriander, oregano, and a splash of vinegar. Salty and deep, it is the festive dish of Athenian tables.
A whole Mediterranean fish grilled, rubbed with olive oil, perfumed with coriander, oregano, and a splash of vinegar. Salty and deep, it is the festive dish of Athenian tables.
On the day a poet is crowned, the table deserves better than an olive. I choose a fish pulled from the gulf that morning, I rub it with oil, I lay it on the embers without fuss, and I let it speak for itself — an herb, a grain of salt, barely a hint of vinegar. You see, I have put on stage torn queens and unjust gods; but before a well-grilled fish, even a tragedian falls silent and thanks the sea.
- •Whole sea fish (sea bream, red mullet) — one fine fish (heart of the dish)
- •Olive oil — generously (cooking and flavor)
- •Fresh coriander and oregano — a few sprigs (flavor)
- •Wine vinegar — a splash (acidity)
- •Sea salt — to taste (seasoning)
Grilled fish with herbs, the opson of dinner
A whole Mediterranean fish grilled, rubbed with olive oil, perfumed with coriander, oregano, and a splash of vinegar. Salty and deep, it is the festive dish of Athenian tables.
Why this dish? Fresh fish was the most coveted opson in Athens, the affordable luxury of a maritime city. Near the Theater of Dionysus and the Agora, on days of tragic competitions when Euripides presented his plays, a fine grilled fish drizzled with oil was feasted upon — the reward of a crowned playwright.
On the day a poet is crowned, the table deserves better than an olive. I choose a fish pulled from the gulf that morning, I rub it with oil, I lay it on the embers without fuss, and I let it speak for itself — an herb, a grain of salt, barely a hint of vinegar. You see, I have put on stage torn queens and unjust gods; but before a well-grilled fish, even a tragedian falls silent and thanks the sea.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole sea fish (sea bream, red mullet) — one fine fish (heart of the dish)
- Olive oil — generously (cooking and flavor)
- Fresh coriander and oregano — a few sprigs (flavor)
- Wine vinegar — a splash (acidity)
- Sea salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Whole gutted sea bream or red mullet — 1 (approx. 400–500 g) (heart of the dish)
- Extra virgin olive oil — 4 tbsp (cooking)
- Fresh coriander — a few sprigs (flavor)
- Dried oregano — 1 tsp (flavor)
- Wine vinegar — 1 tbsp (acidity)
- Sea salt — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Score the fish on both sides, salt inside and out, tuck oregano and coriander into the cavity.
- Brush with olive oil.
- Grill over embers or a hot griddle for 5–7 minutes per side depending on size, until the skin is golden and the flesh opaque.
- Just before serving, drizzle with wine vinegar and fresh oil, sprinkle with herbs.
- Serve with barley maza to soak up the juices.
How it was made : Greeks grilled or poached fish simply; the art was not to mask its freshness. Fermented fish sauce (garos) and vinegar already seasoned dishes, but good fish needed little else.
The contemporary twist : Served on a slate with a touch of lemon zest — a citrus that arrived later in the Mediterranean, a knowing wink.
Sources : Archestratus of Gela, fragments on gastronomy (4th century BC) · James Davidson, Courtesans and Fishcakes (1997)
Euripides · Charactorium