Grilled Lesbos fish with oregano
A whole grilled fish, brushed with olive oil and oregano, heightened with a touch of garos (fish brine). The most coveted opson of wealthy Greeks, which crowned a festive dinner.
A whole grilled fish, brushed with olive oil and oregano, heightened with a touch of garos (fish brine). The most coveted opson of wealthy Greeks, which crowned a festive dinner.
At Pyrrha, on the shores of Lesbos, I spent my days bent over fish: their gills, their manner of spawning, the number of their fins — nothing escaped me, for knowing the living animal illuminates the animal served. Choose it firm and clear-eyed, rub it with oil and oregano, and entrust it to the embers without troubling it. A drop of garos suffices to awaken its flesh. Study nature first, then honor it with a meal worthy of it.
- •Whole sea fish (sea bream, red mullet, sea bass) — a fine one (heart of the dish)
- •Olive oil — generous (fat and binder)
- •Dried oregano — to perfume (signature herb)
- •Garos (fish brine) — a few drops (umami)
- •Sea salt — to taste (seasoning)
Grilled Lesbos fish with oregano
A whole grilled fish, brushed with olive oil and oregano, heightened with a touch of garos (fish brine). The most coveted opson of wealthy Greeks, which crowned a festive dinner.
Why this dish? Aristotle stayed on the island of Lesbos, where he observed and dissected the marine creatures of the Pyrrha lagoon — research that nourished his History of Animals. Fresh fish, a festive dish prized by the Greeks, was literally under his eyes as both object of study and table pleasure.
At Pyrrha, on the shores of Lesbos, I spent my days bent over fish: their gills, their manner of spawning, the number of their fins — nothing escaped me, for knowing the living animal illuminates the animal served. Choose it firm and clear-eyed, rub it with oil and oregano, and entrust it to the embers without troubling it. A drop of garos suffices to awaken its flesh. Study nature first, then honor it with a meal worthy of it.
Ingredients (period version)
- Whole sea fish (sea bream, red mullet, sea bass) — a fine one (heart of the dish)
- Olive oil — generous (fat and binder)
- Dried oregano — to perfume (signature herb)
- Garos (fish brine) — a few drops (umami)
- Sea salt — to taste (seasoning)
Ingredients
- Whole sea bream or sea bass, gutted — 1 (about 600 g) (heart of the dish)
- Olive oil — 3 tbsp (fat and binder)
- Dried oregano — 1 tbsp (signature herb)
- Fish sauce (colatura or nuoc-mam, in lieu of garos) — 1 tsp (umami)
- Salt and lemon (optional) — to taste (seasoning)
Method
- Score the fish on the flanks and rub it with olive oil, salt and oregano, inside and out.
- Let rest 15 minutes while the embers (or grill) heat up.
- Grill over high heat 5 to 7 minutes per side, without turning too much, until the skin is golden and crispy.
- When serving, drizzle with diluted fish sauce and fresh olive oil.
- Present whole on the barley cake or a bed of herbs.
How it was made : Fresh fish (the opson par excellence) was a sought-after luxury in Athens: the best cuts drove up prices at the market. It was simply grilled over embers, olive oil and herbs being enough to elevate it; garos, the Greek ancestor of Roman garum, provided the salty-umami depth.
The contemporary twist : Plate it "like a naturalist": whole fish on slate, fresh herbs fanned out, small bowl of sauce on the side, observation-board style.
Sources : Aristotle, History of Animals · Athenaeus, The Deipnosophists · James Davidson, Courtesans and Fishcakes
Aristotle · Charactorium