A whole fish rubbed with salt and grilled until the skin crackles, the flesh remaining pearly and tender. The dish of honor at the great tables of Heijō-kyō.

Why this dish? The Nara court banquets sealed alliances and state rites that Genmei consolidated. Grilled sea fish, salted and presented whole, was among the ceremonial dishes served to dignitaries who came to pay homage to the empress in the new capital.

That day, the dignitaries filled the great hall, and before them was carried this fish presented whole, its tail raised as if it still swam. We rubbed it with salt until its skin, over the coals, sang and turned golden. Beware of turning it too soon, else its flesh falls apart and with it the honor of the feast. A fish presented upright and whole, you see, tells the guest that he is esteemed without reserve.

How it was made : Shioyaki — grilling with salt — is one of the oldest Japanese techniques, attested well before soy sauce. At court banquets, dishes were placed on elevated lacquered trays (takatsuki) to mark the rank of guests.

The contemporary twist : Even today, the tail is 'dressed' with a salt crust (kesho-jio) to keep it white and decorative: a gesture directly inherited from these ancient banquets.

Genmei · Charactorium