Ismail Samani’s menu
Nân (bread, present at every dastarkhan)

Nân-e tanduri ba zira (clay oven flatbread with cumin)

EverydayReconstruction🧂 🌶️facile1 h 30 (including 1 h rising)

Round, golden flatbread with slight blistering, baked against the hot wall of a tandour oven. The dough, enriched with cumin seeds and a little fat, develops a crispy crust outside while remaining soft inside. Served warm, torn by hand.

Nân (bread, present at every dastarkhan)

Round, golden flatbread with slight blistering, baked against the hot wall of a tandour oven. The dough, enriched with cumin seeds and a little fat, develops a crispy crust outside while remaining soft inside. Served warm, torn by hand.

Before the pilaf, before the meat, before anything — the nân. It is the first dish laid on the dastarkhan and the last one removed. My baker kneads the dough at dawn, presses his fingers into the center to mark the bread, and slaps it against the tandour wall where it puffs like a sail. The cumin I have added is not an emir's whim — it is the custom of Bukhara, for cumin aids digestion and perfumes the breath. Whoever eats at my table first breaks this bread.
Ismail Samani
Ingredients
  • Wheat flourIn abundance (Dough base)
  • Warm waterEnough to knead (Hydration)
  • Sourdough or yeastA piece of yesterday's fermented dough (Leavening)
  • Cumin seedsA good pinch (Fragrance and digestion)
  • Sheep tail fatA little, melted (Softness)
  • SaltTo taste (Seasoning)
How it was made : The tandour (cylindrical clay oven) is attested in Central Asia for millennia. Flatbread is slapped against the hot inner wall, giving it its characteristic domed shape and crispy crust. In Bukhara, nân ovens were community hubs. Cumin (zira), locally cultivated, is the most common spice in Central Asian breads — the obi non of Samarkand is its direct descendant.
Sources : Charles Perry, "The Taste for Layered Bread among the Nomadic Turks and the Central Asian Origins of Baklava", in A Taste of Thyme, Tauris, 2000

See also