flipSikbâj of lamb with vinegar and dates
Sikbâj of lamb with vinegar and dates
Why this dish? Sikbâj was THE prestige dish of Persian and Abbasid tables, served to honored guests. Avicenna, a court physician who passed through the palaces of Gurganj, Hamadan, and Isfahan, surely saw it appear on the sufra of the princes he served.
A sweet-and-sour lamb stew simmered in vinegar, sweetened with dates and honey, thickened with almonds, perfumed with coriander and a touch of murri. The balance of sour and sweet, a hallmark of court cuisine, delights as much as it intrigues.
Here is the dish laid out to honor a distinguished guest, which I have seen steaming on the tables of the emirs I served. One browns the lamb, then drowns it in good vinegar softened with honey and dates: the sour and the sweet must hold each other in balance, like the humors of a healthy body. Pounded almonds bind the sauce, coriander perfumes it. Know this: this dish gladdens the heart and fortifies a cold temperament—but a delicate stomach should partake only with measure.
- •Lamb meat — a fine piece (festive meat)
- •Wine vinegar — one bowl (signature acidity)
- •Dates — a handful (sweetness)
- •Honey — one spoonful (sweet roundness)
- •Pounded almonds — a handful (sauce binder)
- •Onions — two (aromatic base)
- •Coriander, cumin, cinnamon — to taste (court spices)
- •Murri and salt — a little (depth, seasoning)
Sikbâj of lamb with vinegar and dates
A sweet-and-sour lamb stew simmered in vinegar, sweetened with dates and honey, thickened with almonds, perfumed with coriander and a touch of murri. The balance of sour and sweet, a hallmark of court cuisine, delights as much as it intrigues.
Why this dish? Sikbâj was THE prestige dish of Persian and Abbasid tables, served to honored guests. Avicenna, a court physician who passed through the palaces of Gurganj, Hamadan, and Isfahan, surely saw it appear on the sufra of the princes he served.
Here is the dish laid out to honor a distinguished guest, which I have seen steaming on the tables of the emirs I served. One browns the lamb, then drowns it in good vinegar softened with honey and dates: the sour and the sweet must hold each other in balance, like the humors of a healthy body. Pounded almonds bind the sauce, coriander perfumes it. Know this: this dish gladdens the heart and fortifies a cold temperament—but a delicate stomach should partake only with measure.
Ingredients (period version)
- Lamb meat — a fine piece (festive meat)
- Wine vinegar — one bowl (signature acidity)
- Dates — a handful (sweetness)
- Honey — one spoonful (sweet roundness)
- Pounded almonds — a handful (sauce binder)
- Onions — two (aromatic base)
- Coriander, cumin, cinnamon — to taste (court spices)
- Murri and salt — a little (depth, seasoning)
Ingredients
- Lamb shoulder, cubed — 700 g (festive meat)
- Red wine vinegar — 100 ml (acidity)
- Pitted dates — 8 (sweetness)
- Honey — 1 tbsp (roundness)
- Ground almonds — 60 g (binder)
- Sliced onions — 2 (base)
- Ground coriander, cumin, cinnamon — 1 tsp each (spices)
- Fish sauce (or miso) + salt — 1 tsp + to taste (umami, seasoning)
Method
- Sear the lamb cubes in a little fat until browned, then set aside.
- Cook the onions until soft, add the spices, then return the meat.
- Pour in the vinegar, honey, and enough water to cover; add the dates. Cover and simmer on low heat for 1 h 15 min.
- Mix the ground almonds with a ladleful of sauce and stir in to thicken; adjust with a dash of umami and salt.
- Let reduce for another 15 min until the sauce is coating and sweet-sour; serve with wheat bread.
How it was made : Sikbâj (from sik, "vinegar" in Persian) is one of the best-documented dishes of the Islamic Middle Ages: it appears in all Arab-Persian cookbooks, legendarily attributed to the Sassanid king Khosrow. The almond binding and sweet-sour balance are characteristic.
The contemporary twist : Plate the lamb over a creamy barley purée and top with a roasted date to recall its princely status.
Sources : Ibn Sayyār al-Warrāq, Kitāb al-Tabīkh (10th century) · Charles Perry (trans.), A Baghdad Cookery Book (2005)
Avicenna · Charactorium
